Western Australia Tour

Friday 20th January- Thursday 26th January 2006
 

Arriving in Perth early in the morning of the 20th I spent a few hours acclimatising myself with the joys of Fremantle before heading south to Margaret River. The drive south through Bunbury and Busselton was interrupted by the familiar deep throated Kookaburra call as it welcomed me back to Australia at the roadside cafe and reminded me at once of the fascination that this wonderful country holds for me.The wonders of "Triple J", undoubtedly the best music station in the world, kept me invigorated for the four hour journey. I had been invited to stay with Marian and Kevin Squance of Willespie Vineyards, one of the first pioneers of the wine industry in this, the home of Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia. The first vines to be planted were by Vasse Felix, Cullens and Mosswood in the sixties and these vineyards surround Willespie, whose first vines were planted in 1976. In May 2000 I had used my thumb and hitched to Willespie, with the kind help of three grandmothers, bought a bottle of 1996 Cabernet, transported in back to the UK via Ayers Rock, Cape Tribulation and New Zealand. I eventually opened this treasure in 2003 and was amazed by the softness of the minty, blackberry juice and it was one on the main inspirations for " Whirly wine".

The beauty of Margaret rivers landscape is the juxtaposition of arable farm land with the relatively new vine culture. This is wonderful farmland, sheep and cattle blend with the succinct rows of green, vibrant vineyards and the soil is rich in minerals as well as gravelly stone, especially on the higher ridge at Willespie. Indeed the tasting rooms and farmstead were built from rocks excavated from the slopes of the first plantings of Cabernet on the northside of the vineyard. The vineyard here is shielded from the wind by Marri, Karri and Blue gum trees. In April the Marri tree will blossom and the silver eye's will swoop to feast on these fruits of the forest. At this time the vines will be frantically protected by nets otherwise the little pests will consume one of the finest Cabernet plantings in Margaret River.

On Sunday 22nd before I headed south to Cape Leeuwin. Before I departed I tasted some wonderful old wines from the Willespie Cellar. Highlights were:

1. 2000 sauvignon-semillon ( 55%-45%) I tasted this a few years ago and was concerned about the "greeness" of this wine, a Margarat River characteristic. This has now mellowed over the last 12 months and the wine is fresh and long.
2. 2005 Verdelho, sherbety and yet for a young wine very well balanced
3. 1999 Chardonnay. An abundance of energy, freshness and quality for such an aged wine. Soft oak.
4. 1998 Semillon. Rich and yeasty, digestive biscuits. Winner.
5. I compared the Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 from the front and back vineyard. The structure of the wine comes from the back vineyard, being older and the minty, eucalyptus from the front vineyard.

On leaving Willespie I tasted the most unusual fruit growing outside the tasting room; a Cape gooseberry originally from the Cape of South Africa. It tasted of mango chutney and had that hint of curry powder which was extraordinary. From Willespie I headed south via Witchcliffe to a vineyard called Rockfield Estate.

Rockfield is owned by an Englishman called Andrew Jarmon and his son Andrew is the winemaker. I am a great believer in following my nose and it nearly always leads me in the right direction. With some thorough reading of the Halliday 2006 Australian wine Companion each morning, which is a fantastic help given the distance between each vineyard in Australia, I normally hit the target. Here I discovered what will be my first rose for my portfolio, Rosa 2005, a glass of pure delightful Turkish delight and violets!

I scooted down to the most south westerly point of Australia where the Southern and Indian oceans meet at Cape Leeuwin. A solitary white lighthouse guards the area and the confrontation for the right of way between thee two oceans is clear to see, a titanic struggle of waves confronting each other. From here I headed back north and then west to the wine growing area of Pemberton, Manjimup, Mount Barker and Porongurups. A few miles heading west I discovered a wonderful campsite at The Blackwood river and a typical friendly Australian welcome with conversation, wine and food around the campfire of my neighbouring campers. A Bandi Coot, a rare fellow that looks like a fat mouse but alot larger also decided to welcome me which was adorable. A rare occurrence that I felt privileged to witness.

The drive to Pemberton is long and through some spectacular forests. This whole south west point of Western Australia is very wild and remote and care for bouncing Kangaroos crossing the road at dusk and early morning keeps me very alert.

South of Pemberton I visited Mountford wines, sited here since 1986 and owned by two English brothers with the same name. They have a wonderful 2004 Pinot noir and a 2001 reserve which were both very impressive as well as the most gorgeous vineyard restaurant that I would love to taken lunch at given more time. Oh the trials and tribulations of being a wine importer.

Other highlights included:

Yanmah Ridge, Manjumup: planted in 1987, owned by Peter Nicholas, so again established vines, ironstone soil over clay, 330 metres elevation. Here I tasted a wonderful Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend that I believe would create a real storm in the UK.

Gibrlatar Rock, Porongurups. A vineyard perched underneath the oldest mountains in the world, towering granite monolith called by locals " Elephant rock". Highlights were exceptional 04 and 05 Rieslings, 04 Chardonnay and 04 Shiraz. Guinea fowl wander around the vines eating the bugs as thy did at Yanmah Ridge.

Faber Vineyard, Baskerville, Swan valley, Perth. Small production, varietals include soft Petite verdot, 2002 and 2003 reserve shiraz and 2005 shiraz which dispel my view that wines from Australia are drunk too young. These wines are perfect for drinking now! John Griffiths is a sublime winemaker and it would be a privilege to work with him in the future.


Next Stop: Tasmania 29th January -3rd February.

Simon Newson
Whirly Wine

Click on these thumbnails for a larger picture



"Willespie Vineyard"
January 2006
 

"The Road south to Margaret River from Busselton"
January 2006
 

"Some famous names of Margaret River surrounding Willespie"
January 2006
 

"Probably the best Cabernet in Australia?"
January 2006
 

"Karri Tree Forest, south of Margaret River"
January 2006
 

"The mouth of Margaret River where it meets the Indian Ocean" January 2006
 

"Early Morning over Willespie"
January 2006